Is this the end?

[DealorNoDeal]

I would take it back to Kwik Fit, they should have performed some checks before selling you a battery. They should've checked the alternator performance - it takes about 2 minutes for them to do this. If they identify that the alternator is at fault they should refund you the money you spent on a needless new battery - then go to your local garage and ask them to fix the alternator.

If it was me, I'd go to the local garage and explain what's happened. They can quickly check if the alternator is charging the battery. If they've got a battery tester they could also check the condition of the battery supplied by Kwik Fit.

If you do go to Kwik Fit, make sure you've got your BS detector switched on.

[DealorNoDeal]

As an aside...

With all the electronic gadgetry they put in cars these days, it's a shame they can't include something useful like a battery volt meter.

A volt meter can pretty much instantly give you an indication as to the condition of your battery and charging circuitry (alternator etc).

With a car that's used daily, and with the engine turned off, it should read about 12.6v.

If a car has not been used for a few days, it will probably drop to around 12.4v.

If the voltage drops much below 12v, you may have trouble starting the car. In this situation, either use a jump starter or connect a car battery charger for a couple of hours or so.

With the engine running, the voltage should be over 13v, showing that the alternator is charging the battery. If the voltage stays below 13v, even when revving the engine, there could be a problem with the alternator system.

[ladymuck]

As an aside...

With all the electronic gadgetry they put in cars these days, it's a shame they can't include something useful like a battery volt meter.

A volt meter can pretty much instantly give you an indication as to the condition of your battery and charging circuitry (alternator etc).

With a car that's used daily, and with the engine turned off, it should read about 12.6v.

If a car has not been used for a few days, it will probably drop to around 12.4v.

If the voltage drops much below 12v, you may have trouble starting the car. In this situation, either use a jump starter or connect a car battery charger for a couple of hours or so.

With the engine running, the voltage should be over 13v, showing that the alternator is charging the battery. If the voltage stays below 13v, even when revving the engine, there could be a problem with the alternator system.

My car has a little gauge with the battery voltage. Only works when it's on though..

[DealorNoDeal]

My car has a little gauge with the battery voltage. Only works when it's on though..

Does it work when you turn the ignition key to the first position before the starter motor turns the engine over?

If it's an analogue display, the resolution may not be good enough to tell the difference between 12v, 12.5v, 13v. Also, it presumes the thing is accurate.

If you continue to be plagued by battery problems, it may be worth investing in a cheap digital multimeter. Something like this would do:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Di.../dp/B00TM0W8ZY

[ladymuck]

Does it work when you turn the ignition key to the first position before the starter motor turns the engine over?

If it's an analogue display, the resolution may not be good enough to tell the difference between 12v, 12.5v, 13v. Also, it presumes the thing is accurate.

If you continue to be plagued by battery problems, it may be worth investing in a cheap digital multimeter. Something like this would do:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Di.../dp/B00TM0W8ZY

Absolutely nothing happens when I put the key in and turn to position 1, definitely nothing happens when I try to turn the engine over. That's the whole point of my thread! It happened once, replaced the battery, happened again within 3 days of the battery being replaced.

I've owned the car for over 10 years. Last battery swap was 5 years ago. I just about manage 1500 miles a year in it, and it'll sit for 6 weeks or more between drives. It has always, without fail, started every time until the problems started at 6am Monday 14 October.

[Scruff]

Absolutely nothing happens when I put the key in and turn to position 1, definitely nothing happens when I try to turn the engine over. That's the whole point of my thread! It happened once, replaced the battery, happened again within 3 days of the battery being replaced.

I've owned the car for over 10 years. Last battery swap was 5 years ago. I just about manage 1500 miles a year in it, and it'll sit for 6 weeks or more between drives. It has always, without fail, started every time until the problems started at 6am Monday 14 October.

There is a strong likelihood that the Diode in your alternator has failed. This normally results in the alternator being swapped out, unless you have a diligent auto-electrician, who will replace the failed component. This can be diagnosed pretty easily once you have the battery freshly charged and the car is running again.

Cars are designed to be driven and it doesn't do them any good not being used. It isn't sufficient to start them up and warm the engine, they need to be driven to get all the components warm (a 10 mile drive down the motorway is what they need, not a bimble down the King's Road ).

[DealorNoDeal]

Absolutely nothing happens when I put the key in and turn to position 1, definitely nothing happens when I try to turn the engine over. That's the whole point of my thread! It happened once, replaced the battery, happened again within 3 days of the battery being replaced.

What I meant was, does the battery voltage gauge show any reading when you turn the key to position 1?

It might be worth trying the following:

(1) hook up the jump starter; turn the key to position 1. Does the gauge give a reading?

(2) start the car; disconnect the jump starter. Does the gauge give a higher reading than at (1)?

This is a pretty crude test but if the reading at (2) is higher than at (1), your alternator system may be ok.

Really, you need a digital multimeter to be certain. Greater than 13v when the engine is running is a good sign that the battery is charging.

BTW, the reason I'm suggesting you check it yourself is so you don't get fobbed off with BS by Kwik Fit et al.

[OwlHoot]

Cars are designed to be driven and it doesn't do them any good not being used. It isn't sufficient to start them up and warm the engine, they need to be driven to get all the components warm (a 10 mile drive down the motorway is what they need, not a bimble down the King's Road ).

Or you could just jack up the car slightly, and leave it running for an hour or two with a brick on the accelerator, like coppers on night patrols used to do

[DealorNoDeal]

It isn't sufficient to start them up and warm the engine, they need to be driven to get all the components warm (a 10 mile drive down the motorway is what they need, not a bimble down the King's Road ).

+1

Also, you need to drive a fair old distance to recharge a flat battery.

And, in actual fact, you won't get very far if the alternator isn't producing any juice. Especially, if you have lights on.

Actually, I'd go as far as to say...

If you jump start a car, that has a flat battery, and manage to drive for an hour, with the headlights on, then the alternator is probably AOK.

[ladymuck]

My new jump starter worked a treat - I got this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car is up the road at my local garage. A bimble up Kensington Church Street rather than a bimble along Kings Road

With a bit of luck, it won't need me to sell a kidney.

Thanks all for the tips so far, all noted for future reference!